Hull: T.I.D Harbour Tug, Glass Fibre (Models By Design)
Scale: 1/12 (Length: 71" & Beam: 18")
Motor: 24volt DC 12 Pole - 3800rpm
Power Source: For Motor: 4x 12v 22AH SLA battery's (Total output: 24v 44AH - Series/Parallel configuration)
For Aux: 1x 12v 22AH SLA Battery
ESC: Action Electronics P98 High Power (Modified)
Prop: Brass 5" (12.9mm) 4-Blade
Prop Shaft: Mobile Marine Models MaxLine 12.5mm Brass Outer tube / 8mm solid stainless steel inner with bearings
Rudder: Brass
Misc. items
Sound Unit: Beier Sound Module USM-RC-2
Smoke Unit: Steam Master Unit (SMU)
Electrics: Action Electronics P98 High Power ESC (Modified
Action Electronics P107 Switched Power Distribution Board (Modified)
Action Electronics P103 Parallel Power Board (Modified)
Action Electronics P95 Indicator Fuse Boards
Action Electronics P112 Fused Power Distribution Board With Main Power Switch
Action Electronics P44 Universal Twin Switcher
Action Electronics P95 Indicator Fuse Board
Please note, this page will be updated regulary with photos & information as I progress with the build, so be sure to pop back often!

.: The last update was on: 13/01/2018:.

Click on images below to enlarge

Hull Preparation..
After some prepping of the fibreglass hull I made a start on the build, first thing was to add some beams along the bottom of the hull for a piece of 9mm ply to be fixed onto, this will be used for a base for the 5 batterys & electrics etc, so it needed to be strong, the batterys along will weigh in at around 35kg.

I also added deck beams fixed in place using P40, I used a couple of batterys for weight to get a good bond with the P40 while setting. Later on once all deck beams are fitted & supported the middle section of the centre beam will be removed to make access inside the hull much easier but for now this in place as a support while I continue to fit the rest of beams etc. I used cardboard as a template for the base, I also decided to pick up some Gorilla 2 part epoxy for strengthening the joints. All the joins are held together with P40 (wood to fibreglass) & Tightbond 2 (wood to wood). Im using the gorilla epoxy to fill in the gaps of any joints to make sure theyre solid. it also dried clear.


Navigation lamps partially done, I made these out of 2mm plasticard, I will be using some thin (0.4mm) acrylic sheet for the *glass* front, I'm undecided weather to use frosted or clear so I've ordered a sheet of each to test.. From past experience the frosted type sheet will give more of a glow effect whereas the clear will give a much brighter effect. The acrylic sheet will be fitted once I have fitted the bulbs which will bethe Red/Green "Grain of Wheat" type bulbs

Portholes were made using some thick metal washers which I then sanded & brushed using some metallic paint & matt paint to give an old/weatherd effect, I then placed some minature brass nuts around the outer edge, next step is to fill the center hole of the nuts, they should then look more llike bolt heads & also fit a slightly smaller washer in the center with latches on the outer diamater to make it look more realistic. I will then fit some clear acrylic sheet for the window & then another washer to sandwich the window in & also give a more realistic porthole look, I'm just waiting for the washers/acrylic to arrive in the post.





Planking of the wheelhouse complete, I had a few hair pulling moments when doing this! but for my 1st attempt at planking i'm happy with the outcome, I just need to go over it with some more filler then it will be ready to varnish.

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Motor & Mount

The motor I'm going to use is a 24-Volt, 150watt which has around 3000rpm. Current draw should be around 6-7amps, The motor came supplied with a steel gear fitted onto the shaft & it was on solid! ..I had to use a Gear Puller removal tool to get it off, the shaft has a flat spot which is ideal for the grub screw when fitting the coupling. The mount I made out of 10mm x 10mm square brass rods for the base & 3mm Aluminium Sheet for the end plates.

I cut 2 lengths (100mm) of the brass bar & then I used a tap to make a thread at each end of the bars. I then cut the 2 end plates out of the Aluminum sheeting & cut out the holes & then fixed the motor to the mount using bolts. I'm pleased with the outcome, its very solid and has 4 mounting holes (2 either side) to fix it to the base, this will make removing/inserting the motor for maintenance fairly simple..

I then fixed the motor to a piece of 9mm ply, As you can see, I fixed it in place using bolts from the underside, I did it this way so the motor can be removed/inserted with ease if needed just by loosening/tightening the 4 nuts so there will be no need to remove the wooden base.

Prop & Prop Shaft..

The Prop is a 5" 4 Blade, the shaft is a 12.5mm Brass outer with an 8mm stainless steel inner shaft with oiler, safety coupling is a heavy duty 8mm plain (motor output shaft) to 8mm threaded (drive shaft).

After checking, double checking, tripple checking! my measurements, Ive drilled the hole for where the prop shaft will pass through, then using some cardboard & wooden dowel I checked the fitting, all looking good, prop has plenty of clearance which is what I was worried about, but so far so good!


Scratch built from 2mm Brass Plate


All my bits & pieces arrived for me make a start on wiring up the batterys.. I will be using 4x 12v 22Ah Gel Cells wired up in Series/Parallel config connected to a modified P103 Parallel board from Action Electronics (see pic below), this will give me a total output of 24v 44Ah. I will also be using a 5th 12volt battery connected to a P107 Distribution board which is basically the same as the P92 but the 107 has an on/off switch, this will be used for powering all the accessories such as Smoke Unit, Sound Unit, Lighting, RX etc & will be on a completely seperate circuit to the drive batterys. Ive also decided to fit a Voltage/Current LCD display for the motor circuit & a Voltage LCD display for the accessorie circuit so I can easily view the power status of both circuits on-the-fly. All the electrical boards, ESC etc will be enclosed in a radio box with a clear perspex lid, to keep things cool inside the radio box I will also be adding 2x 12v mini fans to it using the push/pull method for good air circulation.

I Hot Soldered the wires to the ring terminals, & then soldered the wires to the connectors, Ive added connectors in strategic places throughout the wiring setup to allow me to remove/insert 1 battery at a time as a majority of the of time I will be sailing this on my own, so I need to make it so I can transport on my own with ease, so being able to remove/insert 1 battery at a time was a must as each battery weighs around 7kg, this will allow me to fit/remove the batterys with the hull in the water which in turn will make transporting the hull to & from the water very simply (& light!). This is the 1st set of batterys using red connectors, the second set will have black connectors as seen in pic below so I can distuinguish between eat set to avoid confusion. I will be using a P107 Distribution board which is basically the same as the P92 but the 107 has an on/off switch


Random photos of my build

Installing Rudder..
(Coming Soon!)
Fitting Deck..
(Coming Soon!)

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